Corsica

This is the story and photos of our trip to Corsica in September 2023. If you click on a photo you will see a larger version and can click through the arrows to see the others in that section or choose to view a slideshow by clicking on the slideshow icon in the top right of the screen. Click on the X to escape.

Arrival

The ferry docked punctually at 7:00. We had to be out of our cabin, with our luggage at 5:30! We found the station and boarded the train to Corte. The train winds its way impreesively on a single track up through the mountains. Our hotel was a little distance from the station so we had a coffee break at Grimaldi’s on the main street. After receiving our pack from the hotel we set off to explore Corte. We tried to follow the Sentiers du Patrimoine. After a steep descent from the Belvedere, we went on a path by a stream. We enjoyed the path and had lunch on it but it came to a full stop and we realised we had gone wrong. Once on the correct path we found it was a short way back into Corte. After a very good ice cream we explored the museum. This was mainly about the history of maps of Corsica (and elsewhere). We also explored the ramparts of the citadel. Dinner at the museum restaurant was excellent!

Track of walk

Gorges du Tavignano

On our first ‘official’ walking day we were to take a mule track up the Gorges du Tavignano. We found the start and followed the waymarks. The track was quite easy to follow but the mules must have had a hard time with the rocky surface! We turned at the Rossolino bridge. The gorge views were impressive!

Track of walk

Lac de Melo and Lac de Capitello

We knew this was going to be a tough walk from the programme information. We were taken by Navette to the Bergerie de Grotelle and told firmly to be ready to go back by 16:00. There are two routes to the first lake and we followed the crowd (this is a busy and popular walk) up the right hand side of the river. We knew there were ladders up some rocks but had not realised there was also a chain. This proved a little daunting, particularly with sweaty hands, but was eventually managed by Camilla. (David had swarmed up ahead without a problem). The first lake was reached! We then set off up to the second one. This was definitely challenging as it involved some steepish scrambling and two more chains. It was worth the effort, particullarly as we were greeted by Alpine Choughs. We took lunch back at the first lake where a rock gave some shade and then made our way down the other side of the river. No chains but a pretty steep rocky path had to be negotiated. We made it with time for a well deserved beer before getting the Navette back.

Track of walk

Lac de Nino and the GR20

This was going to be another tough day and quite long. The route up to the col above Lac de Nino involved some steep scrambling. The col and the lake were worth it however. The route along the GR20 was very enjoyable and significantly easier. The walk ended with a rather long essentially level path through woods to our next hotel Castellu di Vergio.

Track of walk

Cascade de Rodule

Today was a shorter walk from the hotel. It did, however, have some challenging parts, particularly descending to the river Golo. On our way we stopped at a Bergerie, that was inaccessible by road and had its supplies delivered by mule, and had Earl Grey tea! The cascade was impressive.

Track of walk

Down the Mare a Mare Nord to Evisa

We had to be at Evisa for 15:00 hours so set off immediately after breakfast. The path was mostly through woods and downhill. The descent to the suspension bridge was steep and rocky. It was well waymarked but required care! After lunch at the Piscine Naturelle (Piscines a Madre on the map) we walked through chestnut woods with various information boards to Evisa. We made it with time to enjoy some delicious chestnut ice cream and our taxi turned up at 14: 30 to take us to Piana. When David drew back the shutters in our room, he took one look at the view and said ‘Eat your heart out Mrs. Richards’ (Reference Fawlty Towers).

Track of walk

Calanches de Piana

Todays walk was through this part of a UNESCO World Heritage site. Although the weather was a bit duller than we had been used to, the light improved in the afternoon and we thoroughly enjoyed the walk.

Track of walk

Ajaccio and the Sanguinaires

The only bus back to Ajaccio left at 8:30 and the ferry didn’t leave until 20:00 so we had some time to spare in Ajaccio. David found a restaurant that stored left luggage and booked us on an afternoon boat trip to the Sanguinaires – small islands just along the coast. We also found the morning market interesting to wander round. The only slight mishap was that we intended to have dinner before boarding the ferry. As the restaurants didn’t start serving until 19:00 hours this proved to be not possible. We had dinner instead in the Italian resaurant on board – a bit more civilised that the ‘Yellow’ cafeteria we had used on the way out!